Sevilla

It is 30 degrees F with freezing wind. Louisiana has these maverick weathermen who say things that are not scientifically cautious but that often turn out to be true, and they have followings for this reason. Apparently one of them said this morning there would be snow.

Long ago one Christmastide we set out hitchhiking in the evening, in the rain, in northern Spain. Our sign said Málaga and we were bound for the جامع الفناء in Marrakech, one of the world’s great plazas, where we did ultimately arrive.

We were picked up soon by boys who had “borrowed” their parents’ car, to run away to their cousins in Seville. Could we drive legally? they asked. We went.

We arrived late and slept late in a white building with tiled alcoves and geraniums. When we awoke it was still raining but it was warm. We ate kidneys in sherry under some arches and drank carajillos, and we were in the south.

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The market was sumptuous with muscat raisins and figs, almonds and turrón, clementines, sardines and hard cheese. With these things we went on. It took eight hours to cross the sea and the waves crashed over the decks.

At night again we caught a ride in a Land Rover that left us in our designated village in the Rif; its final destination was Timbuktu where you could go then.

Axé.


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